Vacheron Constantin, upgrading the Hallmark of Geneva in its production
Introduced in the 19th century by an industry long threatened with the scourge of counterfeiting, the Hallmark of Geneva is now regarded as a true horological philosophy and the symbol of horological perfection.Given legal status in 1886, the Hallmark of Geneva is probably one of the oldest professional hallmarks in any industry, recognised as a label of origin, but especially as a guarantee of superior quality. But while it is highly prized in the world of Haute Horlogerie, not just anyone who wants to can join the select circle of manufactories able to obtain it.
- Hallmark of Geneva
A very select club of manufactories
Comprising twelve permanent criteria – modified over the years, of course, to meet various changes in the industry, the Hallmark of Geneva is only given to movements that satisfy all twelve.
What is more, it is only granted to movements assembled and regulated within the canton of Geneva and by watch Manufactures whose head office is there. The number of companies able to display it on their prestige series can be counted on the fingers of one hand, making a sort of exclusive club to which Vacheron Constantin is proud to belong.
Besides the technical and aesthetic obligations required by the law, the Hallmark of Geneva embraces a horological philosophy that makes no concessions to the quality of either the movement as a whole or to its individual parts. It is guided by a certain spirit governing the production of movements from the design stage, because these require a number of manual operations in the purest tradition of the professionals who created this hallmark more than a century ago. In the area of finishing, for example, decorating parts with Côtes de Genève, circular-graining and chamfering and the drawing of steel are operations carried out by hand.
- Caliber 4400
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Safeguarding the spirit of true craftsmanship
Although there is no intention of slowing down progress in the area of watchmaking expertise, the Hallmark of Geneva continues to emphasise the actual craftsmanship at the heart of its founding principles, even though its criteria are periodically modified to meet industrial changes in the sector. Manual work will therefore remain central in the activities of Manufactures that regard the Hallmark of Geneva as the pinnacle of the art of watchmaking.
In practice, the Hallmark of Geneva Commission – which is totally independent, reinforcing the value of this certification – has seven members appointed individually for four years by the cantonal government. For approval, each one of the movement’s 100 to sometimes more than 800 components, depending on the model, must first receive approval from the Commission. Once all the parts have been given the green light, the movement can be assembled and regulated for one final series of tests. The plates of all the watches in the relevant series are then authorised to receive the Hallmark.
Vacheron Constantin, upgrading the Hallmark of Geneva in its production
Vacheron Constantin has always viewed the Hallmark of Geneva as an exclusive hallmark to be championed, respected and upgraded in the production of its watches. Since being granted its first Hallmark of Geneva in 1909, Vacheron Constantin has been one of the few manufactures to have worked within the demanding and satisfying parameters of this quality hallmark, which symbolises watchmaking excellence. Vacheron Constantin continues to develop its range of watches Hallmark of Geneva; the objective is to have all its mechanical movements certified.
- Caliber 4400
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As Vacheron Constantin has always aspired to perfection in the creation of its timepieces, the Hallmark of Geneva provides a standard enabling it to transcend its limits. As the Manufacture’s aim is to create timepieces with extremely refined lines and faultless movements, it has pushed the design and finishing of its watches to the very limit. This has led to close individual attention being given to every component and resulted in the highlighting of the movement’s gear-trains, more generous, finely hand-finished surfaces, and a balance of shapes worthy of the finest watchmaking tradition.
Far from yielding to the imperatives of productivity, Vacheron Constantin has always given priority to quality. From its R&D and design department to its assembly workshops to the finishing of its components, this spirit of true craftsmanship, supported by a solid industrial base, ensures that the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin will remain one of the worthiest representatives of the Hallmark of Geneva.
The Hallmark of Geneva – The twelve technical criteria (excerpted from the Official Regulations of the Hallmark of Geneva)
Only mechanical watches assembled and adjusted on the territory of the Canton of Geneva – Switzerland – may be entered. Each movement must furthermore bear its own individual production number.
- The quality of all parts and components of the movement, including those used for auxiliary mechanisms, must comply with the standards prescribed by the Office for the optional inspection of Genevan watches. Steel parts must display polished angles and their sides parallel file strokes, their visible faces must be smoothed and polished, screw heads must be polished or circular grained (with their rim and slot beveled).
- All movements must be fitted on the going train and on the escapement with ruby jewels with polished hole. On the bridge side, jewels must be semi-mirror polished and their sinks polished. A centre-wheel jewel in the main plate is not required.
- The balance spring must be secured by a sliding stud cap with round head and neck. Mobile stud-holders are accepted.
- Fitted or split indexes (regulators) with a fastening system are accepted, save on extra-thin movements where the system is not mandatory.
- Regulating systems featuring a balance wheel with variable radius of rotation are accepted provided they comply with the conditions set out in Article 3, paragraph 1.
- Geartrain wheels must be bevelled on their upper and lower sides and their sinks polished. For wheels 0.15 mm thick or less, bevelling on the bridge side only is tolerated.
- Pinion shanks and faces must be polished.
- A lightweight escape wheel is mandatory: no more than 0.16 mm thick for larger sizes or 0.13 mm for wheels less than 18 mm across; locking faces must be polished.
- The lever’s angle of travel must be contained by solid bankings, to the exclusion of pins or studs.
- Movements fitted with shock absorbers are accepted.
- The ratchet and transmission (crown) wheel must be finished in conformity with prescribed models.
- Wire springs are prohibited.